Starting salvage at Walakpa

It was a long day.  I’ve been insanely busy, hence the lack of posts (although there are a few drafts I need to get out there…).  Aside from some projects at work and a paper which I should finish shortening tomorrow (the two reviewers both had useful addition, but one liked one section and thought the other half could be cut, the other felt the same way, except he wanted to cut the part the first one liked and expand the part the first one wanted to cut) I’ve been working on getting set up for salvage at Walakpa.

While I was in Iceland, reports came in of a house eroding from the bluff at Walakpa.  It was checked & sure enough.  The UMIAQ staff went down and taped it off to discourage the curious who were doing some damage, and we started organizing.  The North Slope Borough Planning Department and Mayor’s Office are helping financially, and I’m writing a RAPID proposal to NSF on the off-chance some funds wind up being available.

Monday we went down & set up a tent for the crew.  Yesterday was an off day, due to the funeral of Nok and Rita Acker’s little daughter Gabby.  Today we got back at it.

The trip down was more eventful than one might wish.  One of the machines we are renting, a nearly brand-new Polaris (576 mi) just serviced last week, that I was riding decided to overheat.  Fluids were fine, no idea what is wrong.  So it got swapped out, off to the shop, and we went on our way.

The bluff has fallen away from the house, leaving quite an overhang of sod, which is putting pressure on the structure, as well as being hazardous to work below.  We spent the day getting that cut back, and will finish tomorrow.  Then we can strip sod back a bit and start excavating properly.

Dennis Stanford excavated at Walakpa in 1968 and 1969.  On Monday, I had found two of his three monuments, and had set up EDM to use them, so we could just tie into his grid..  Unfortunately, I had assumed that he worked in metric.  Alas, not so.  I couldn’t remember how to change the settings on the transit to feet, so I had to do some quick English to metric conversions and reprogram while the others ate lunch.

I seem to have put the pictures I thought I was putting in my Dropbox somewhere other than that, so no pictures today.  Sorry about that.

 

A bit more about Iñupiat subsistence whaling

My post on the Anagi crew’s whale has gotten a number of comments from people who are interested, one way or another, in whales.  Some of them are genuinely interested in learning more about whales & Iñupiat whaling; others appear not to be.  I’m going to try to answer some of the questions, and provide links to sites that can give even more information.

But first,  see this Public Service Announcement.

OK, now a bit of history.  Alaska Natives (and in fact many other Native Americans and Canadian First Nations people) have been whaling for 2000 years or more, since before the Thule culture developed, based on archaeology.  Aboriginal whaling did not damage the whale stocks in any way that can be detected.  What damaged whale stocks was European (and later Euro-American) commercial whaling.  The bowhead was popular with commercial whalers because it was non-agressive and had a lot of blubber for whale oil, plus long baleen.  Most Eastern Arctic stocks were decimated by the early 19th century.

In the western North American Arctic, commercial whaler Thomas Welcome Roys first cruised north of the Bering Strait in 1848, starting a rush to catch the plentiful and naive Bering-Chukchi-Beaufort stock of bowheads on which so many coastal Alaska natives and their inland trading partners depended.  The whales soon became skittish and scarce and many Alaska Natives died of starvation.

Once oil was struck in Pennsylvania, one of the big reasons for hunting whales diminished.  But the baleen, the plates in a whale’s mouth that they use to filter-feed, was still valuable for buggy whips and corset and collar stays.  Bowheads have by far the longest baleen of any whale (15 feet or more from a big whale), so they were still hunted until those items were no longer in fashion or needed.

Many coastal Alaska Natives had become involved in commercial whaling, including shore-based commercial whaling carried out with traditional Iñupiat techniques with Yankee style harpoons, to support their families.  After commercial whaling ended, coastal whaling communities continued these hunts, combining traditional techniques and traditional and modern technology.

In the late 1970’s, some Western biologists, who were not experienced in the Arctic and knew little about bowhead whales (biologists didn’t back then) tried to count bowheads.  They believed that the whales were scared of ice!  They thought the bowheads had to travel in a lead and would come up to breathe in the lead so they could be counted.  Even if that were true, they didn’t account for the fact that there are multiple leads, and that the whales only have to breathe every so often and that wouldn’t necessarily be where the observation post was.  They came up with a count of several hundred whales, and of course, sounded the alarm.  A moratorium was declared on Alaska Native whaling in 1977 (years before the moratorium on commercial whaling, I might add).

Since many families got (and still do get today) a significant portion of their meat from whales, this was a huge problem.  Although wages may look high in places like Alaska’s North Slope, costs are high too, and many families do not have someone who is working in the cash economy and can afford to feed a family on store food and whatever else they can hunt (and of course full-time work does interfere with hunting, which was traditionally a full-time occupation itself).  Most Iñupiat had never heard of the International Whaling commission, and couldn’t understand why they felt it appropriate to starve human beings by forbidding them to feed themselves.

They were particularly puzzled because senior whaling captains and hunters who had spent many decades on the ice had observed that the bowhead population appeared to be growing from the depths it had sunk to by the end of commercial whaling.  They knew that bowheads are not scared of ice.  In fact they can breathe under quite thick ice (they become positively buoyant and use the bow on their head where their nostrils are to push up the ice, cracking enough to let air into the little tented space formed under the ice and breathe there, and then submerge and go on about their business), and that they would not restrict travel to the near shore lead, so they knew the count was wrong.

The North Slope Borough Department of Wildlife Management, with many cooperating researchers over the years, has been studying bowhead whales ever since.  They soon developed a much better way to count them, which is continually refined.  Counts now show an annual rate of increase of 3.2%, which is really high for such long-lived animals.

The Alaska Native Bowhead hunt is highly regulated.   The Alaska Eskimo Whaling Commission (AEWC) manages the hunt under authority from the US government.  There is a quota of strikes (not whales taken, but whales struck so there is an incentive to land every whale struck if humanly possible), which is established based on document subsistence needs of each whaling community, in light of the population estimates. This quota is set so that communities get what they need and no more.  The harvest is considerably below what population biologists would consider a sustainable harvest if they were talking about elk, or caribou, or mule deer.  As long as something else, like marine noise or a massive oil spill in Arctic waters, doesn’t come along and decimate the population the way commercial whaling did, this is absolutely a sustainable harvest, carried out by people who entire culture is centered around that harvest.

The AEWC divides the quota between communities, based on active crews and population, and approves the transfer of strikes between communities (if, say, the ice is bad in one place and they can’t catch whales, they may transfer their strikes to a place with better conditions) since the maktak and meat is shared and everyone on the North Slope and beyond benefits if whales are taken.  Only captains and crews registered with the AEWC are allowed to take whales, and violations of rules, ceasefires, etc can and has led to punishment or suspension of the offending captain.

When a whale is taken there are traditional rules for sharing which vary by community.  In general, specific shares go the captain, the boat (itself–although obviously the boat owner disposes of the boat’s share), the harpooner, the other crew members, and the other boats which helped tow the whale back to be cut up.  Anyone who shows up to help with the butchering (even a little) gets a share.  My daughter helped a very little once when she was about 8, and she came home with a small share.  The captain’s wife and her helpers cook round the clock after the whale is ashore, and when they are ready, the captain’s flag is hoisted and anyone who wants can go and get fed (they will usually send to-go plates to house-bound Elders).

After that, the captain and crew get ready for a celebration where a great deal more of the whale is shared with whomever shows up.  People get whale meat, maktak, kidney, intestine, tail, flipper, gums, plus goose soup, mikiaq (whale blubber, meat & blood, fermented–and before you say gross, when was the last time you ate curdled drained milk with mold on it–AKA a nice Stilton or Brie?), rolls, cakes, fruit, etc.  Most families in the community go to at least one of these every year.  Many go to all of them.  The amount given to each person depends on how many in the family (and the servers pretty much know or the people sitting around do, so no one fibs).  Captains also give out meat & maktak at Thanksgiving and Christmas feasts to whomever shows up (usually much of the community), and usually will provide some for potluck and other festivities as well.  They also share with Elders & folks who need it during the year.  Most of the folks with whom it is shared share it farther.  Shares travel to Anchorage and even to the Lower 48.  Some of the people who get shares send back things like berries or smoked salmon from their area, or caribou from the interior.

None of the whale, or any other marine mammal for that matter, can be sold, with the exception that Alaska coastal Natives can use baleen or bone or ivory to make handicrafts, which they then may sell.  They are not allowed to waste the rest of the animal just to get these products.

There is a great list of links to good solid information on the bowhead whale and bowhead hunt here.

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Public Service Announcement: Rules of the Road

This is my blog.  So I get to decide the rules of conduct here, and I get to approve comments or not.  Questions and reality-based discussion are fine; rudeness is unacceptable.   I will not approve comments that involve any of the following breaches of polite conduct, so don’t bother posting them:

  1. Disparaging or derogatory references to groups of people.
  2. Disparaging or derogatory references to particular cultures or their traditional life-ways.
  3. Disparaging or derogatory references to individuals who are not public figures (and I will not look all that favorably on such references to public figures either).
  4. Uninformed or misleading comments, particularly those which indicate that the commenter didn’t even take the time to follow the links provided in the original post and read what was there, but rather just aired her/his own opinion, unfettered by facts.
  5. CONTINUOUS LENGTHY SHOUTING.  A word in caps now & again is OK,  four paragraphs of shouting isn’t.  It hurts people’s eyes to read that.  Oh, and they think you don’t know how to keyboard.

I reserve the right not to approve other comments that don’t fit with the mission of the blog.  For example, I won’t approve comments that seem to me to put cultural resources at risk.

One other thing, regarding what people eat:  De gustibus non est disputandum.  So don’t try.

Fog coming off of snowbanks

A (not very good) raw video of the fog mention in the previous post

Finally, a whale for Barrow! Yay, hey, hey!

Yesterday and today were great days for Barrow.  Last night, showing real persistence in the face of very discouraging conditions this spring, a number of crews went out.  Anagi crew took a 54 footer, the first whale taken in Barrow this spring (or summer, as some of my Facebook friends pointed out).  The whale reached the beach just after midnight, according to Coby, who took a picture of the landing at 12:05 AM.

I had gone to bed early, trying to make up for sleep lost due to something or other wrong with my shoulder, and slept right through it.  None of my co-workers did.  I got a call at 7AM from Trina, who had been helping all night and had realized she couldn’t stay awake for work (or give rides to the others).  I headed for town.  I stopped at the whale first.  As you can see, the weather wasn’t great, as it often isn’t in the morning in summer, and it actually started raining pretty hard while I was there.

Approaching Anagi crew's whale.
Approaching Anagi crew’s whale.
About 9 hours into the butchering.
About 9 hours into the butchering.
Shares of maktak waiting to be put away.
Shares of maktak waiting to be put away.

A bowhead whale weighs roughly a ton a foot, so cutting up a whale this big involves a tremendous amount of labor.  People had been working for about nine hours at this point, and still had a way to go.  The maktak (skin & blubber–very tasty indeed) was mostly off.  There was a bit waiting to be taken either to the captain’s cellar to be put away or divided as shares, but a lot of it had clearly already been taken care of and put away.

I thought a panorama of the scene might be interesting, so–thanks iPhone.

Panorama of Anagi whale being cut up on beach in Browerville, June 27, 2013.
Panorama of Anagi whale being cut up on beach in Browerville, June 27, 2013.

After that, I got Coby, who had apparently only been at the whale until 2:30 AM, & we tried to find RJ, with no luck.  Went back to the BARC to discover a message from my assistant Tammy, who had been at the whale until 4AM, saying she would be late.  Since she is Michael’s ride, he wasn’t there either.  Coby & RJ started working, and I started trying some VZAP troubleshooting, which required running a logger while trying to access the site and then forwarding the logs to the VZAP team at ISU.  I hope it helps, and we don’t discover the problem is just awful connectivity.  Jan, the middle school teacher who is volunteering, wasn’t in, but she rides her ATV to the lab, so we figured she had decided the rain was a bit much.  After I finished with the logging on the computers, I fired up my email, to discover one from Jan saying she had apparently slept right through her alarm, because she’d been at the whale until after 2 AM!  Coby and RJ decided to call it a day around noon, to go back to the whale.

All this made for limited progress in the morning.  A good bit of the afternoon was taken up with things connected with various non-archaeology projects I manage.

The weather warmed up a good bit later, and the south wind was actually ablating the snow in the drifts by the snow fences, making fog billow off them. It was pretty spooky looking.

Fog coming off the snow banks.
Fog coming off the snow banks.
Enhanced by ZemantaADDED  7/1/2013:  If you don’t think people should hunt whales, well, it’s a free country and you are entitled to your opinion.   But before you try to post a rude comment, please check here and here.

The mystery of Bobby’s Feature

There is a very small surface feature at Nuvuk, discovered by one of the bear guards, which is known as Bobby’s feature.  We are working our way through the various surface and near-surface features, cataloging artifacts and doing a rough faunal sort.  Since Bobby’s Feature seems to have a total of one bag of material (surface collection by Bobby) I decided I could catalog it and catalog the faunal material all in one go.

Now, we do not have a very good faunal comparative collection, for reasons too complex to go into here.  We do have donated partial specimens from local hunters, supplemented with surface collected complete bones.  But I have been looking at arctic faunal collections for a very long time, and there was very little in the bag that looked like the kind of small fragments where one heads to the comparative collection or maybe gives up and says “SCRAP”.   I cataloged the maul head and the net weight, and assorted seal long bones and inominates, caribou and dog/wolf teeth (loose), marine mammal rib fragments with some interesting butchering marks.  And then the fun started.  There is a good bit of dog chewing on this stuff (maybe the feature was what was left where a dog had been tied?) and the dog had not been helpful.  There is a fibula shaft that is broken so the obvious landmarks aren’t there, a scapula with all the landmarks chewed off, a strange little mandible that is about as big as a ringed seal, but is shaped all wrong.  The teeth are missing as well.  The shape is a lot like walrus, but it would have to be fetal or neonatal to be that small, and the bone looks too old.  It kind of looks like some pinnipeds which occur further south, but I am not very familiar with them, and need to at least get a look at some examples to see if they are a possibility.

So I tried VZAP.  I really like VZAP, but it often doesn’t work very well from Barrow if you want to look at anything but crania (which of course rarely occur intact in archaeological sites).  Several hours later, still nothing I needed downloaded.  Maybe it will be there by morning…

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A bit of interior decoration

We’ve added a couple of new student hire for the summer, but still have room for one or two more, so if you are interested, get in touch ASAP!

With the larger crew, we have been working on getting some of the Pingusugruk collection sorted and in proper archival boxes.  We need to move the container it was in, so we’d have to move the boxes anyway, and this way we can not only record which bag is in which numbered box, but also sort the “Tamis” bags, which are the 25% random sample drawn at time of excavation from the rest, to make future analysis easier, and find the rest of the bags from the column sample that Rebecca Connor & Angelique Neffe started on, so I can finish that analysis.  Most of this work is being done by our adult volunteers.

The students worked on this a little, mostly to get it set up so the volunteers can work easily, and also to get more room on the lab benches, so that they can work on the Nuvuk materials with no chance of things getting mixed up.  In the process, we had a number of animal bones that were collected on the beach or tundra and donated to us.  Some of them have been labeled as to species and element, and are being used to help with the preliminary sort and cataloging of the materials from Nuvuk Locus 6 midden.

There were a few things which were sort of superfluous, like a caribou skull.  The students really wanted to use it as a decoration, so with a little glue to keep the teeth in, it was suspended outside the door (using peel-off hangers of course to avoid damaging the wall.

The caribou skull
The caribou skull

Apparently, they found something else they felt was not necessary to include in the comparative collection, either because we haven’t found any (we haven’t) or because they figure everyone already knows what it is.  The next day, this is what the door looked like.

A addition to the decor
A addition to the decor
The new addition is a walrus baculum, often known as an oosik.  I doubt some of the visiting scientists know what they are looking at :-).

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Wanted: High school students who want to learn about archaeology & the past

The lab is ramping up.  Trina Brower is back, now as lab crew chief, Coby is still working away, and we’ve got several adult volunteers.  One of them is a middle school science teacher, and she’s volunteering weekday mornings with the students as well as on Saturdays.

However, we still have a lot to do in the lab, and we could use a little more help.  The NAP has several more student jobs.  We’re looking for people who are hard workers and like to learn new things.  No experience is required.  If you are (or if you know) a high school student in Barrow who fits the description and is looking for a job, get in touch with me.  We are also taking adult volunteers.

Breaking Radio Silence

Things have been quiet here for months.  It’s not because nothing has been happening on the archaeology front here at the Top of the World.  Lab work has been progressing through the winter, I’ve gone to several conferences and given some papers, and heard a lot of interesting talks, and work has been pretty busy.  Life as usual.

But not really.  Around Thanksgiving 2012, my mother, Marjorie Williams Jensen, was diagnosed with lung cancer.  By the time it was discovered, it had spread, and was essentially untreatable. We went back east to Ballston Spa for Christmas, and she seemed to be doing fairly well, all things considered, short of breath, but no pain and with some energy.  We came back to Alaska in late December, planning another trip in January or February.  She sounded a little worse after New Year’s and the night of January 4th I had decided that I’d get a ticket and go back to see her.  The next morning my brother called to say she had died overnight.  She will be missed.

Mom was a great mother and grandmother.  She was very smart, well-read, her own person.   She earned her Doctorate in Medicine from the University of Pennsylvania in 1950, where she was one of only 10 women in her class.  She interned at Queen’s Hospital in Honolulu, Hawaii, before Hawaii became a state.  Once her children were in school, she completed her residency and worked as a pathologist in the Ellis Hospital Laboratory until her retirement.   Several of my high school girlfriends have told me that she really opened their eyes to the possibility of being a professional woman, since she was the only person like that they had ever met.  (It was a small town in upstate New York in the late 60s & early 70s–things were different then.)

Mom came from good genetic stock.  Both of her parents lived into their nineties, as did many of my grandmother’s siblings.  But Mom was a smoker.  She had smoked for 67 of her 87 years, and it got her in the end.  Ironically, other than the lung cancer, her heart and circulatory system were in great shape, she was still sharp as a tack, and could still garden, read and do things around the house.  She could have lived years more, but the cigarettes got her.  Ironic, given that she was a pathologist and knew better that most what cigarettes can do.

So folks, if you smoke, and if you have people who love you, children, grandchildren, STOP.  If not for your own good, for their sake.  I know it is hard.  But people do it every day.  You can too.

And if you’re an archaeologist, as an added bonus, no more worries about contaminating C14 samples .

 

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